Along the Turquoise Coast Part 1: Kelebek Vadisi & Kabak
Not far from the hustle and bustle of Fethiye you can find beautiful secluded beaches at the bottom of steep valleys seemingly untouched by the outside world. Of course I’m not talking about the famed Olu Deniz beach here which, in my opinion has unfortunately suffered from its own popularity in recent years. No, I am talking about Kelebek Vadisi, below the pretty village of Faralya, and the community at Kabak.
Both have become more popular in recent years since they are located along the Lycian Way yet still remain lovely places at which to stop and rest before, during or after you have walked any parts of the Lycian Way or just as a place to find some serenity.
For keen (and fit) walkers Kelebek Vadisi (Butterfly Valley) while not actually part of the Lycian Way, is described in the book as a lovely detour. Lovely it definitely is but not for the faint-hearted or unadventurous! The path in some places leads you over sheer drops by scrambling over rocks using the support of fixed ropes. We passed a mature group of ladies who had guides with them, and were using their own ropes and harnesses to get through these sections! You should however reach the bottom after 30-45 minutes, and you are rewarded by the beautiful sandy beach and a lush gorge which leads back to a waterfall. If you are here at the right time of year you will also see exactly how the valley got its name! Behind the beach is a campsite with basic facilities so if you feel so inclined you can stay the night here. There is only one route in and out by land so you have a steep climb ahead of you which will probably take around an hour to complete. If you are not feeling adventurous enough to walk here, then Butterfly Valley can be visited on a boat trip from nearby Olu Deniz or Fethiye, although these are not exactly tranquil places to base yourself.
We chose to have our picnic lunch on the beach at Butterfly Valley, and then, after a relaxing swim in the sea, made our ascent back up to Faralya. We then returned to our car and drove a little further on until we reached Kabak where we had planned to spend the next 2 nights. One of the charms of staying at Kabak , apart from its tranquil surroundings, is that you have to leave your car at the top of the hill and walk down the valley to your chosen accommodation (or alternatively you can take a ride in the local taxi – a tractor!). Various pansiyons and campsites dot the route down and offer stunning views across the valley, and are surrounded by nature. We had booked accommodation at Turan Camping who offer basic camping or wooden ‘boutique’ bungalows, and offer half-board in their prices. There is a wonderful atmosphere here and you are welcomed as a friend into the community. The staff are very helpful and knowledgeable about the area too.
From here it is only a short walk to the valley floor and the mostly sandy beach and a small waterfall. The way-marked Lycian Way, which brings you down into Kabak, travels across the valley floor and leads to a path which takes you up the other side and eventually arrives at the small village of Alınca. This part of the Lycian Way is not too strenuous because you walk through the forest shaded from the sun and the path winds back and forth so it is never really too steep. It does however take almost 4 hours for an average person to walk it, though for younger/fitter people it can be just over 2 hours. The views back across the valley and out to sea are stunning and well worth the walk up. Coming back down is obviously a bit quicker and you can reward yourself with a swim in the sea or in the refreshing pool at the base of the waterfall.
Even driving on the twisting roads in this area is a spectacular experience with amazing views, and it is a very different landscape to the Bodrum peninsula one that I am used to.
Other articles in this series: